Category Archives: On the road

Day 26 – Pau to Laruns

51km of 1840km so far…
After my day off and the steak I had for dinner last night, I was feeling ready to conquer the mountain tops. Even if I woke up early, I had a slow start. Being a Sunday I had to buy supplies from one of the supermarkets in the city, as shops would be closed in the country side. A stop in the tourist information office and another stop in the boulangery for the second breakfast meant I was out of Pau at around noon. That was ok though as my destination wasn’t that far away, but I wasn’t sure how difficult it would be in terms of altitude.
Even if the visibility was rather poor all day long, I could see I was heading towards the mountains, so I was expecting to face big slopes at any time. After a while though, I realized I was cycling within a valley parallel to a river. I was still going uphills but it was only a minor gradient and in general the ride was easier than expected. On the other hand the scenery was just amazing, with mountain tops all around me, some inside others outside the clouds.

Cycling by one of the rivers
Cycling by one of the rivers
The sourounding mountains of the valley
The sourounding mountains of the valley

I had a quick stop for a lunch snack at Luvie-Juzon in a very nice location by the river. The village it self is very small and quite, with nice old houses.

The view of the mountains from ...
The view of the mountains from Luvie Juson
My lunch spot
The lunch spot
And let there be light!
And let there be light!

I started cycling again and it didn’t take that long to get to Laruns where it was my primary destination and I knew there were camp sites. It was around 2am and my dilemma was whether to stay there or attempt the high col which was 18km away plus another 18km for the next village of Aucun. The problem was that I wasn’t sure if there are camp sites over there as it belongs to a different county and the tourist office didn’t have information about. I decided not to risk it and I checked in to one of the several camp sites of Laruns. To be honest I didn’t regret it at all. Laruns is a very nice little village at 525meters, surrounded by incredible mountains and only has bout 1000 inhabitants. The camp site I chose is right next to the river, which I can hear from my tent. A very nice contrast after the horrible camp site in Pau, where the only thing I could hear was cars.

Laruns with the big mountains in the background.
Laruns with the big mountains in the background.
Houses at Laruns
Houses at Laruns

After my shower and washing up, I went into the main square of Laruns to have a look. There I met a Portuguese couple and they were touring as well. Actually Pedro and Catia just finished their trip and they were heading back home in a Spanish city, where they live at the moment just on the other side of the mountains. We exchanged some stories and experience and they offered me valuable information about the cols I wanted to attempt as well as others that I should go through. They’ve done several trips in the area so they know it very well.

Day 25 – Pau

(15km)

Today was really my day off and I didn’t do much. I woke up, did my laundry and had a massive sandwich for breakfast, with that sausage I am eating for the past 3 days and I am really sick of.

I cycled the 5km to the town center and started wondering around. Most of the city is relatively newly build and without much interest. I walked down the Pyrenees boulevard, which has a nice view of the mountains, but unfortunately the day was a little hazy, so they were not visible at all. On this road there are plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants where you can enjoy the view. It also leads to the highlight of the city which is Pau‘s spectacular castle by the river. This is also the area with the most interest, as the neighborhood still has old medieval buildings.

Cafes in one of the plazas

Plenty of cafes in one of the plazas

The Pyrenees Boulevard

The Pyrenees Boulevard, but unfortunately it wasn't clear enough to see Pyrenees

Pau's Castle seen from its gardens

Pau's Castle seen from its gardens

The courtyard inside the castle

The courtyard inside the castle

The back entrance

The back entrance

Alleys next to the castle

Alleys next to the castle

And even more cafes

And even more cafes

After my sightseeing, I spend a few hours inside the city’s cultural center where there is free and fast wifi! That’s very good, considering two days ago I payed  €4 for an hour in a dark internet cafe, without wifi, using a French layout keyboard which made me type as slow as my grandmother. The guy not only didn’t let me plug my laptop into his network, he didn’t even let me charge it in case his fuses go down!

The cultural/exibition center with the wifi. Not bad eh?

The cultural/exhibition center with the free wifi. Not bad eh?