Tag Archives: cycling

Day 24 – Saint Palais to Pau

(80km)
I woke up this morning from the heaviest sleep ever and I could barely move my legs. It took me at least half an hour and two cups of tea to completely open my eyes and start feeling my legs again. I should have probable taken the day off, after yesterday’s ride but I didn’t. I wanted to make it to Pau and take the day off there, as it’s a city and it will probable have a few more things to see.
Usually it takes me about 5 kilometers in the morning to get my legs warm enough to start cycling at the usual pace. Today it took about 30 and it was only after my lunch break that I started catching up. I know I should have taken the day off, but I didn’t. Pau wasn’t that far away, I knew there was a camp site and as I wasn’t in a hurry, so I just took my time.
The lunch break took place in Navarrenx, which is another fantastic town within a medieval fortress. I crossed the gate, had my sandwich on a bench looking at the nearby river and then had a short walk around the walls. It should be quite nice living in a house within such a landmark.

Approaching ...

Approaching Navarrenx

The main gate

The main gate

The view of the river by the walls

The view of the river by the walls

Inside the fortress

The houses inside the fortress

I started pedaling again to the next city of Mourenex, where I didn’t find anything interesting to make me stop apart from a self service car wash. It was time again to clean the bike and remember that my gears and chain are nickel and not black. After the wash I put some fresh lubricant and the ride was once again as smooth as when I first bought the bike.

Hi, my name is kitsch!

Hi, my name is kitsch!

The road from there onwards, was running parallel to the Pau river, which means it was entirely flat and easy for my legs. I got to Pau early enough to go via the tourist office for a local map and a supermarket for supplies.

Day 23 – Urrugne to Saint Palais

(97km)
I was tempted to stay another day in such a nice place, but I didn’t. I packed my stuff, let my tent dry out from last night’s humidity while having breakfast and left Urrugne and the Atlantic ocean for good. I cycled enough to the south and it was about time to start heading east!

Last view of the Atlantic ocean

Last view of the Atlantic ocean

I started my day very excited, not only because I had a second breakfast by the ocean, but because I was about to face the mountains of Perenees. Of course I was uncertain if I could make it or not, so I didn’t plan for a specific destination, but I had only marked on the map several towns with campsites.

Mountains here I come!

Mountains here I come!

Even being so close to the sea, just after 10 kilometers in the mainland the slope of the road started becoming noticeable steeper. Also the fact that I was constantly seeing groups of cyclists going up and down, made it obvious that I was going the right way. I’d like to note that the majority of these cyclists, were at their middle age. No wonder why I’ve never seen any of these electric/lazy chairs in France. Minutes later I saw the first cycling sign which indicates the name of the col I was going to, the altitude, distance and the grade of the road at that point. 10-15 minutes later I made it to my first top! Col Saint Ignace is only 169m and the grade doesn’t go above 5%, but I think it was ok for my first climb.

My first col

My first col

After my short break for a fruit and a PR photo, I continued to the nearby village of Sare. Sare along with Ainhoa and La Bastide Clairence are villages that I had read that are very interesting to visit. All three were very small, with similar architecture and character. Nice houses with coloured beams and windows, within a fantastic landscape, full of trees and streams of water. The first one had an open market and I kind of regretted that I had already bought my lunch, as there were some stalls with delicious looking products.

The open market at Sare

The open market at Sare

Ainhoa

Ainhoa

Ainhoa

Ainhoa

I went to the second village of Ainhoa via Spain. Yes I did cross the invisible borders for about ten kilometers and then back in again. It wasn’t really necessary, but I thought why not, just so I say I’ve made it there as well.

The shop at the right is in Spain

The shop at the right is in Spain

Sortly after my break for food refuel, I continued to La Bastide Clairence and after that I faced the last part of the ride which was to get to Saint Palais that had a camp site. Through out the whole day I cycled through some amazing landscapes full of trees, streams and rivers. It really paid of the effort of cycling up the slopes.

Going down before going up again

Going down before going up again

For most of the day the scenery was like that

If you want to avoid slopes, follow rivers or rail tracks

The view from one of the tops

The view from one of the tops

Apart from the first col, I did go up and down the slopes several times. So after managing to cycle 95 kilometers, one thing was certain that I was exhausted and very hungry. I pitched my tent, had a shower and washed my clothes in fast forward and then cooked my self a hefty portion of pasta with sausages, fresh tomatoes, onion, garlic and cheese, which by now has already been digested.