Tag Archives: France

Day 19 – Bordeaux to the Dunes of Pilat

(91km)

I woke up a little late, took my time to make my tea with my brand new stone and had a massive breakfast of a whole baguette, 8 slices of salami and 200g of cheese. I said goodbye to the English cyclists and made my way to the center of Bordeaux to visit the tourist office for camp sites and directions. That was a very wise idea, as they show me the way and I got out of the city in no time and without any problems this time.
I headed west, once more to meet the ocean and the coastal city of Arcachon. To ride was a little bit boring, as the road for about 30km is completely straight, without much variation in the scenery. Also it seems that on the west of Bordeaux there aren’t any vineyards, apart from a couple of chateaux and a about a dozen of vines in one of the entry roundabouts of the city, letting the visitors know what this city is all about.

Vines as a statues of the roundabout

Vines as a landmark on the entry roundabout of the city

Bath-trees also grow in Bordeaux

Bath-trees grow in Bordeaux as well

Arcachon is another big resort, with nice beaches packed with well done cooked bathers. I got there relatively early, so I was debating whether to stay there or go further south to see the dunes of Pilat. I had done my homework with the campsites, so I knew there is one in the city and a few more further out. I went to the local tourist office to ask exactly where they are and for an opinion on what to do.

Me: I know there is a campsite in the city and a few other by the dunes. Which one do you recomend?
Tourist office lady: Ahh… I am not allowed to tell you.
Me: How come?
TOL: We can’t favor one over the other. But if I could, I would say the one in Arcachon.
Me: Why?
TOL: Because it is the local one and it belongs to our department.
Me: hmmmm…

I cycled around the long beach of the city and I though I should go to the local one and call it a day, since it was very hot and I was getting a little tires. On the way, as I was looking at the map, an old couple asked me where I wanted to go, told them about the camp site and also asked for their opinion about the local one versus the ones in the dunes. They agreed the local one was better. As I was approaching to the camp site which by the way is not close to the sea, the same thing happend again, but with a younger man this time. I asked him the same question and he said the local is very good and close to the city, the others are 10km away but next to the dunes. So it’s up to what I wanted, luxary versus nice scenery. I thought about it for a minute and made the right choice of taking the extra ride to the dunes.
I knew these are the biggest sand dunes in Europe, but when I first saw them I said WOW!!! I was cycling within the forest and when I located the first camp site, I saw the massive dunes as its backdrop, and they were casting their shadow on the entire site. I quickly made my choice of the camp site and an emplacement just next to the dune boundary, thinking that I should better be as close as possible to the beach.

Where I pitched my tent

Where I pitched my tent

After I pitched my tent and before having a shower I went to have a look. It took me about 5 exhausting minutes to go up the dune and another 15 to go over it and down to the water. Apparently their maximum height is about 110 meters and 3 kilometers long. It’s probable the most spectacular scenery I’ve seen so far in the trip.

Going up the dune

Going up the dune

On the top of the dune, looking at the forest

On the top of the dune, looking to the forest

On the top

At the top

Parapente

Parapente

Going up again

Going up again

I also took this great opportunity to enjoy my first swim of the summer. You see I am a little peculiar about where I am swimming, even if I was craving it all these days as I was sweating next to the ocean. In general I avoid busy beaches, because that’s where you can smell the coconut suncream, hear screaming babies, find douzens of cigarettes under your towel and floating tambon in the water.

The busy beach

Compare the beach at Arcachon...Â

The ocean

...with this one!

I was expecting the water a little warmer for such a hot day, but I guess that’s the ocean, or me who has lost touch with the sea. Anyway, after my swim I let my self dry out in the sun and walked up and down the massive dunes once more, to go back to the tent and cook my dinner.

Day 18 – Bordeaux

(19km)

I had already decided from the day before that I would spend at least a day in Bordeaux. So I woke up when I was ready to, took my time, chatted a little more with the English cyclists and then made my way to the town center.

It is indeed a very beautiful city, with the big river of Garonne crossing it and dozens of pedestrianized streets in the center full of old buildings. I spend most of the day wondering around the center, getting lost in the alleys and looking into the nice shops. It’s always very interesting to go back to a lively and busy city after spending so much time by my self in the country side.

My first view of the city from the river
The view of the city from the river

A road under a caslte

The city had plenty of those gates

Alleys

Many alleys like this one

Saint Andre Cathedral

Saint Andre Cathedral

The typical French outdoor cafes and restaurants

The typical French outdoor cafes and restaurants

Tourists in the mist

Tourists in the mist

Being in a big city was a good opportunity for me to buy a couple of things I needed. I bought the next two maps and I finally managed to buy a stove and several supplies, with which I made my first warm dinner that will make my mom proud.

Maps to go all around the globe

Maps to go all around the globe

My first tent-made dinner

My first tent-made dinner