Tag Archives: France

Day 3 – Quineville to Carentan

(33km)

Once again I woke up under a cloudy sky and as I was preparing my stuff to depart it started raining. Not much, but just enough to get my tent wet. I packed it anyway, had my banana and started my daily ride, hoping to cover a good distance.
The coastal road was just amazing. The sea on the left, endless farms on the right and the clouds above slowly dissapearing to reveal a nice blue sky and the sun which would help dry my cloths on the bike.
Only a few kilometers on the way and I stoped at the first german bunker, overlooking the sea. It had a few holes on its wall, making it obvious that there was once a big fight there. Continuing down the coast, I saw more and more of similar structures, some deserted, others converted to something useful by locals.

German bunker, which is now been used by youths to consume alcohol!
German bunker, which is now been used by youths to consume alcohol!
Bunker wisely used!
Bunker wisely used!

The coastal road, as well as all the near by ones, were dedicated to all the dead soldiers that fought during D-day, so every half a kilometer there was a marking with a name and its rank. A few more kilometers to the south and I got to Utah beach, where the majority of the American troops landed. There was a big memorial, a few tanks, a museum and a very nice beach that French people were enjoying.

Sherman Tank
Sherman Tank

DSC04868

One of the memorials at Utah Beach
One of the memorials at Utah Beach
That's where I started from.
That’s where I started from.

I was getting hungry and as I denied to pay for a sandwich at the tourist price, I moved on the the mainland. The first town I met was Ste-Marle Dumont, which was one of the first to be liberated after the invasion. It had a nice church where apparently the soldiers spent a night there and a couple of small museums, one of which I visited.

Alley in Ste Marie Du Mont
Alley in Ste Marie Du Mont
Happy German Soldier in the museum.
Happy German Soldier in the museum.

I then bought a buguette/sandwitch which I straped to the bike and left the town. A couple of kilometers down the road, I found an ideal place to consume it and also unpack the tent and let it dry properly. I tried to have a siesta but it was rather too hot.

After lunch dryout and siesta
After lunch dryout and siesta

The next city on the way was Carentan. By the time I got there, I had only done 30 kilometers and I was feeling like doing a lot more. But unfortunately I hadn’t thought about where to go next and I was debating whether to continue on the D-day beaches on the east or start making my way to the south. I visited the local tourist information office and I found out there aren’t many camp sites in the mainland. I went to the nearby cafe, which had wifi, to think and decide what to do next. I ended up spending three hours in there, which didn’t left me with any other option other than spending the night there. I decided to go south next day, via some dedicated cycle paths.
After I got my internet fix and updated the blog, I went to the local camp site which is the best I’ve been so far and for only 5€ it is a total bargain. As I was trying to choose a spot to pitch the tent, I noticed a couple that I saw earlier in the day on their bikes, preparing their dinner. Without much thinking the girl approached me and invited me to dine with them, which of course I couldn’t turn down. Christof and Stephane are German and started their cycle tour from the west edge of Brittany two weeks ago and they are planning to get to Caen by Sunday. We exchanged experiences over our maps and they gave me loads of tips and advices as they were more experience than me. After we had the noodles they cooked on the spot, we went into to town to have some desert. I already had an ice cream that day and I felt a little bad having that amazing chocolate cake as I only did 30km that day. But I guess I can burn these extra calories the day after.

Stephane , me and Christof at the camp site
Stephane , me and Christof at the camp site

Day 2 – Cherbourg to Quineville

(55km)
First morning in France

First morning in France

First wake up in my tent, first wake up in France. I can’t say I slept perfectly, but it’s always the case that it takes a few days to get used to sleeping in the tent. The weather the night before was very nice and warm with zero clouds, but in the middle of the night it got colder and I woke up under a sky full of heavy clouds. It took me a couple of hours to do my things and get ready to get on the bike and as I was leaving the campsite the rain started. Luckily it only lasted 20 minutes, so I didn’t get very wet. Even if I had a banana and that power-bar that guy offered me the day before for breakfast, I couldn’t help my self from jumping into the first bakery buying two freshly made croissants. After that I was on my way to the next town along the coast. The ride was relatively flat with only a few minor up and downs, but with very nice sceneries by the beach and endless fields with vegetables.

Quick pitstop to eat a banana

Quick pitstop to eat a banana

Barfleur

Barfleur

By midday I was in Barfleur, about 25km away from Cherbourg, which was one of my destinations as I had read it’s a nice little village and it was indeed. I sat in one of the fish restaurants by the little harbor and had some sardines for lunch.

Nice lunch

Nice lunch

After a short siesta on one of the benches by the harbor, I was on the road again following the coastline, but south this time. I kind of like when the compass is pointing south, as I know Athens is somewhere there.

Crowd going to the music festival

Crowd going to the music festival

On the way, I passed by a coastal town called St. Vaast-la-Hougue, where I was very surprised with the spectacle I saw. Opposite the town there is a little island with a fort and a museum. Once a day, this island gets connected with the mainland because of the tide, extending the beach by a couple of kilometers. The revealed bottom of the sea, was covered in oyster beds and people. Some of them were collecting oysters by hand, but most of them were heading to the island on foot, almost like marching. Apparently a music festival was taking place on the island, so all the visitors were able to just walk there. On their way back in the night after the waters cover the beach, they will have to get wet up to the waist. A bit strange, but fun as a local told me. I kind of liked the vibe of the town and I was thinking to spend the night there, but since I only had done 40km by then and it was still 4pm, I thought I should keep cycling for another 10-20 km to the next village, so I can devote the entire tomorrow on the D-day Utah beach.

On the way, many of the fields were populated with big cows. Thinking about the history of the place, I started remembering all these combat scenes we’ve seen on D-day related films and computer games, with parachuters fighting withing dead cows. I also did see my first German bunker in one of the fields, but there didn’t seem to be any access to approach it. A few more kilometers and I got to my destination which was Quineville, which is a rather small village with a very long and wide beach, ideal for surfing, kite boarding, horse riding and Europe invasions. Without any effort at all, I bumped into a campsite, where I decided to spend the night. It was a little bit basic but for only 5 euros I couldn’t really complain.

The Beach by

The Beach by the camp site

After I pitched the tent and I had a shower, I went around the beach, show the war memorials and then looked for something to eat. I had a greasy kebab and a beer. Then off to the tent for an early night in.