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Day 3 – Quineville to Carentan

(33km)

Once again I woke up under a cloudy sky and as I was preparing my stuff to depart it started raining. Not much, but just enough to get my tent wet. I packed it anyway, had my banana and started my daily ride, hoping to cover a good distance.
The coastal road was just amazing. The sea on the left, endless farms on the right and the clouds above slowly dissapearing to reveal a nice blue sky and the sun which would help dry my cloths on the bike.
Only a few kilometers on the way and I stoped at the first german bunker, overlooking the sea. It had a few holes on its wall, making it obvious that there was once a big fight there. Continuing down the coast, I saw more and more of similar structures, some deserted, others converted to something useful by locals.

German bunker, which is now been used by youths to consume alcohol!
German bunker, which is now been used by youths to consume alcohol!
Bunker wisely used!
Bunker wisely used!

The coastal road, as well as all the near by ones, were dedicated to all the dead soldiers that fought during D-day, so every half a kilometer there was a marking with a name and its rank. A few more kilometers to the south and I got to Utah beach, where the majority of the American troops landed. There was a big memorial, a few tanks, a museum and a very nice beach that French people were enjoying.

Sherman Tank
Sherman Tank

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One of the memorials at Utah Beach
One of the memorials at Utah Beach
That's where I started from.
That’s where I started from.

I was getting hungry and as I denied to pay for a sandwich at the tourist price, I moved on the the mainland. The first town I met was Ste-Marle Dumont, which was one of the first to be liberated after the invasion. It had a nice church where apparently the soldiers spent a night there and a couple of small museums, one of which I visited.

Alley in Ste Marie Du Mont
Alley in Ste Marie Du Mont
Happy German Soldier in the museum.
Happy German Soldier in the museum.

I then bought a buguette/sandwitch which I straped to the bike and left the town. A couple of kilometers down the road, I found an ideal place to consume it and also unpack the tent and let it dry properly. I tried to have a siesta but it was rather too hot.

After lunch dryout and siesta
After lunch dryout and siesta

The next city on the way was Carentan. By the time I got there, I had only done 30 kilometers and I was feeling like doing a lot more. But unfortunately I hadn’t thought about where to go next and I was debating whether to continue on the D-day beaches on the east or start making my way to the south. I visited the local tourist information office and I found out there aren’t many camp sites in the mainland. I went to the nearby cafe, which had wifi, to think and decide what to do next. I ended up spending three hours in there, which didn’t left me with any other option other than spending the night there. I decided to go south next day, via some dedicated cycle paths.
After I got my internet fix and updated the blog, I went to the local camp site which is the best I’ve been so far and for only 5€ it is a total bargain. As I was trying to choose a spot to pitch the tent, I noticed a couple that I saw earlier in the day on their bikes, preparing their dinner. Without much thinking the girl approached me and invited me to dine with them, which of course I couldn’t turn down. Christof and Stephane are German and started their cycle tour from the west edge of Brittany two weeks ago and they are planning to get to Caen by Sunday. We exchanged experiences over our maps and they gave me loads of tips and advices as they were more experience than me. After we had the noodles they cooked on the spot, we went into to town to have some desert. I already had an ice cream that day and I felt a little bad having that amazing chocolate cake as I only did 30km that day. But I guess I can burn these extra calories the day after.

Stephane , me and Christof at the camp site
Stephane , me and Christof at the camp site

Day 1 – Poole to Cherbourg

(38km)
Me and Mauricio.

Me and Mauricio.

I woke up early again and Mauricio sorted me out with some super duper breakfast to keep me going for the next 3000km. After some final good buys and photos, I left his house and his killer dog at around 7:15am to catch the train to Poole for the ferry.

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After spending the past couple of weeks panicking to arrange so many things,  it was only when I saw England from the deck that I started thinking about what I was doing. Looking at the sky, there was an airliner heading somewhere south and I though that it may probable get to Athens before I even get to France. Why did I not choose the more convenient way? That was it though, after the ferry raised its ramps, the only home was to cycle there.

Goodbuy England!

Goodbuy England!

The four hours in the ferry passed by very pleasantly. I watched England disappearing in the horizon and France slowly emerging from the other side. In the meantime, I listened the ‘In-flight French’ mp3 to try and remember some of the basics, in order to survive in the wilds of Europe. I also watched a magician/comedian entertaining the children in the ferry. At some point someone approached me and we started chatting about my cycling plans. Then he said that he cycles as well and also has a company called MuleBar that makes cycling food. So he offered me a power bar, which I am saving for tomorrow morning.

French kid getting ready for the invasion.

French kid getting ready for the invasion.

And here I go...

And here I go...

I got in Cherbourg at 2:45pm local time and initially I felt a little bit spaced out, without knowing what to do first and where to go. The initial plan was to Cycle to Barfleur as I’ve heard is a very nice village. Then I though, I should better stay in the comforts of the town just for a day, to buy a few things and start getting used to the new country. So first thing I bought a French SIM card, so people like you can call me anytime and ask me how I am doing. The number is +33648572817
I got hungry so I bought half a meter of baguette. Then I couldn’t help my self thinking about my broken charger, so I got into the mission to try and find a new one. That day I cycled about 25km. I even went 10km outside the town, uphill under the hot sun, not to see the scenery but to locate that mega computer store and beg for my fix. They didn’t have it! I got very desperate and hated my self for carrying a computer in such a tour, which was now just a dead brick of weight in my panniers. After visiting 5 different stores, my last attempt was a big supermarket just opposite. And YES they did have it, so I bought it along with some bananas and toilet paper. What a relief! I rolled happily downhill very fast back to the town, aiming for the camp site that I got directions for in the tourist office earlier. I put my tent for the first time and went for some food in the kiosk by the beach. Unfortunately they just stopped serving food and the only thing they could offer me was yet another baguette with cheese and ham, so that what I had for dinner, along with a cold glass of beer.
That’s it… time to get some rest for tomorrow’s longer and more meaningful ride.

My portable home

My portable home

Sunset by the campsite

Sunset by the campsite