Tag Archives: oregon

Day 16 – Portland to Nestucca River

78.6km out of 1045km

I had many reasons to stay a few more days in Portland, but many more to get back on the road. It was Greg’s birthday today and they were planning a big party for the day after. After my shower and while packing my stuff, Lindsay cooked a nice breakfast for all us. I manage to fit everything in the panniers and since there was a scale in the house, I used it to weight my bike just out of curiosity. Not sure if it’s good to know the numbers. The bike on its own weights about 17 kilos and with all the bags and small things loaded, it goes up to 43kg! 5-10 of them is probable all the food I bought the day before, plus a couple of beer bottles Greg convinced me to take with me. I got ready, we said goodbyes and off I went to the unknown again.

Lindsay, Gregory and Lola

Lindsay, Gregory and Lola

As usual, even though I was planning to leave early, I managed go bet out of the door around 10:30, to head to the near by light-rail station. Since I was starting my day late, I decided to skip cycling out of the city and start my day from Hillsboro, which was just 30km outside Portland.

A bit of cheating there

A bit of cheating there

It was past noon when I actually started cycling and I was wondering if I could make it to the coast in one day. The route went through a small town and a lot of farmland through some really nice landscape. The day was gorgeous, sunny, relatively warm and I was glad the forecast was wrong about the fog and the rain. I stopped to a fruit stand for a pear and noticed that the shop and the whole area was full of Mexicans, barely even speaking any English.

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For lunch I stopped at a small town Yamhill and after evaluating all my food options, I decided on a Mexican restaurant. Since they’ve populated the whole area, I thought they would know what they were doing in the kitchen. It had a very nice patio after all, ideal for such a hot day.

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Just minutes after I left, I noticed that my odometer had just passed the 1000km mark. It took me two weeks to get here, but I hope from now I will be covering distance a little faster, so I don’t miss my flight.

Yeaaah!!!

Yeaaah!!!

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Alive deer

Alive deer

Dead deer

Dead deer… oh dear

The excellent Oregon Transportation map, took me through some very quite and scenic roads. I knew I had a big climb ahead of me, but after that it would be just a constant downhill all the way to the coast. I didn’t expect it to be that hard though. For about 2 hours I was cycling on the lowest gear, pushing the 43kilos and my self meter by meter, hoping in the next turn the road will start sloping down again. I have to admit though, the route was amazing, taking me through a vast old growth forest. Finally at the top, I saw the big water reserve, indicating that the hard part was over. Unfortunately it was already getting late, so I realized I wouldn’t be making it to the coast that day and I had to choose between the four campsites the map indicated.

Plenty of forest

Plenty of forest

The water reserve

The water reserve

Finally going downhill again

Finally going downhill again

Watch out for horses with 5 legs

Watch out for horses with 5 legs

Nestucca river by the road

Nestucca river by the road

I saw the first campground and I went in to check it out. It was very rustic, without showers and no-one was there. Even though it was a self-pay campground, there were no envelopes to put the money in and the box was sealed. It seemed a bit deserted and I thought I should try the next one 5km down the road. On the way down, I started wondering how comfortable I’d feel pitching a tent in an empty campground. During that whole section, I was barely seeing any other vehicles on the road and the map indicated that there are no services along the 55km of that stretch. I got to the next campsite ready to experience the complete isolation, but secretly hoping for at least a family car to feel a little more secure. While looking for the pay station I noticed one more car, but realized that instead of a happy family it was just a man on his own, drinking a can of beer, without even a tent to pitch. We had a quick chat trying to understand what his story was and I couldn’t stop thinking that he could easily be a serial killer waiting for his next victim. I even wrote down his license plate, so the officers have a clue in case something happened to me. I went off to look for a spot and I was debating whether to stay or head to the next one. Unfortunately the next campground was another 10km away, 4 of which on unpaved road, so I really couldn’t judge how long it would take me to head there. It was already late and I was worried to go any further, so I decided to stay with the dodgy looking man. I think I could do better knowing that big-foot was around, than just me and Jim from California. You were looking for adventures George… there you have it!

Despite my paranoia, the location was excellent. I pitched my tent right next to the stream so I could hear the water running overnight. I put the two beers in the river to cool and started preparing something to eat. It was all dark by the time food was ready and for a few minutes I switched off my headlamp to experience the darkness. Surprisingly, a minute later when my eyes adjusted, the full of stars sky proved to be bright enough for me to see and continue eating, despite the heavy tree coverage all around me. I couldn’t stop thinking how far away I was from home, wherever that may be during this transition period. A feeling of remoteness and isolation I was anticipating to find in the Canadian Rockies but I got to experience without expecting it, a night after I was having drinks with my friends.

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day 15 – Portland

12km out of 967km so far

Once again I woke up on the comfortable couch and decided to spend one last day in Portland with my friends. I felt a little guilty for doing so, especially as the weather was so nice out and I knew heavy rain will be coming in the next couple of days. But then I don’t know how soon again I will see Greg and Lindsy so I thought it was a good reason to stay. Plus I won’t be having any long breaks again up until San Fransisco which is definitely a few weeks away.

We had breakfast at home and together with their friend Veronika, we went altogether to a local supermarket. I think I bought way too many food supplies, as they barely fit in my panniers, but the prices were so good, that I guess it’s worth pulling all that weight over the hills. By then we were hungry enough for a stop to the nearby food-kart. Out of all these amazing options I went for an umber ‘Kalamata mama’ burger, stuffed with feta and olives, which can make even the most demanding stomach happy.

Some of the food-kart options

Some of the food-kart options

Greg waiting for his food

Greg waiting for his food

After the quick lunch break under the hot sun, we headed to the nearby Mt Tabor for a walk and see the view of the city.

In the park

In the park

Looking west towards downtown Portland

Looking west towards downtown Portland

Being on an outdoorsy mode, we decided to go drop off the shopping at home, pick up Lola the dog and head to the hill at the opposite side of the river. Arlington Heights apart from the local zoo and many high class residencies, hosts the International Rose Test Gardens, with hundreds of variaties from around the world, as well as several experimental mixes. I never thought that there are so many different types of roses with such divert sents. We spend a good hour there wondering around, smelling each on of them and playing with the dog.

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After these two fairly touristic activities, we continued the day with the real attractions of Portland, a stroll to various happy hour bars and breweries. We still had Lola with us, so we chose to begin with one that had an amazing patio that allowed pets. Both interior and patio were overloaded with vintage articles from all around the world, but the outdoors space had some cosy spots to hang out.

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Yeah right...

Yeah right…

Next stop was another patio, at a different style and a phenomenal happy hour menu with $2 cocktails! I mean these deals should be illegal, turning innocent cyclists into alcohollics!

Cyclists are welcome

Cyclists are welcome

Scandal

Scandal

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The day finished with another visit to the nearby food-kart on the way back home. I had a souvlaki type chicken pitta wrap with a touch of avocado in it. We had a couple of beers there and headed back home for an early night, so I can start my next day as early as possible.